The following will help allow your computer to load programs into memory more efficiently allowing you to have more memory for MS-DOS programs / games.
Ensure you have the following lines at the beginning of your config.sys file.
DEVICE=C:\WINDOWS\HIMEM.SYS
DOS=HIGH,UMB
DEVICE=C:\WINDOWS\EMM386.EXE NOEMS
By placing the DOS=HIGH,UMB on the second line this can in some cases save memory because it is loading DOS into upper memory before loading the memory manager. Additionally the first and third line cannot be loaded into high memory because these lines are the memory managers.
Load all your devices in your config.sys and autoexec.bat into high memory.
How can I comment lines in batch or system files?
Remarking lines within the autoexec.bat or the config.sys allows you to temporarily or permanently prevent a line from loading each time you boot the computer. The method most commonly used is placing "REM " in front of the file you wish to skip.
REM PATH=C:\WINDOWS
If you are encountering issues with a line in the autoexec.bat it is highly recommended that you remark the line instead of removing it. This will prevent issues from arising if the line needs to be placed back into the appropriate file.
How do I get additional memory?
Free Tips Online
Create Transparent Windows
Make any XP window transparent and control the amount of transparency for each.
One of the cooler new interface features of XP is the ability to use transparent or semitransparent windows, in which the background can show through the current window. But there's a problem with that feature: very few programs take advantage of transparency, and there is no way built into XP for you to make windows transparent. So, to a great extent, the feature is worthless.
However, a number of downloadable programs tap into that XP capability and let you make any window transparent. My favorite is Glass2K (http://www.chime.tv/products/glass2k.shtml), because it's small, it's simple, and above all, it's free. It doesn't muck around with your system by making Registry changes or installing .dlls. It's just run an executable file, and with it you can make any window transparent. When it's running, go to the window you want to make transparent, and press Ctrl-Shift and a number from 0 to 9. 9 makes the window the least transparent, 1 makes it the most transparent, and 0 sets it so that it's solid, with no transparency. You can also right-click on a window, and select the degree of transparency from the program's pop-up menu. The window will keep that degree of transparency as long as you run the program and keep the transparency setting. Figure 2-19 shows the results of making windows transparent with the program.
Trans-XP is another downloadable that lets you make windows transparent. It's shareware, and is free to try, but costs $14.95 if you decide to keep it. It's available from http://www.totalidea.com.
The downloadable version limits you to having only three transparent windows
Another similar program is Actual Transparent Windows. It's also shareware and is free to try, but it costs $19.95 if you decide to keep it. It's available from http://www.actualtools.com.
If you're looking for an all-in-one tool that lets you make countless interface tweaks, including making any window transparent, try Tweak-XP, from http://www.totalidea.com. In addition to giving you transparency, it lets you hide programs on the Start Menu, and create your own folder icons. It also offers a variety of optimization tools, as well as utilities such as a pop-up ad blocker, a Registry cleaner, Zip file repairer and much more. It's shareware and free to try, but you're expected to pay $29.95 if you keep using it.
There's one drawback to using transparent windows: it takes up processing power and RAM, so it may slow down your system. The fewer transparent windows you create, the less processing and RAM are used, so handle transparent windows with care.,
Change the MP3 Encoding Rates in Media Player
How Change the MP3 encoding rates in media player, okay follow my instruction !
These settings allow you to change the MP3 encoding rates in Windows Media Player. The default is 56Kbps which is quite low quality, this tweak allows you to add higher rates such as 128Kbps or 192Kbps. and this setting for all windows
Open your registry and find the key below.
Create a new DWORD value, or modify the existing value called 'LowRate, MediumRate, MediumHighRate, HighRate' using the settings below.
Exit your registry, you may need to restart or log out of Windows for the change to take effect.
System Key: [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\MediaPlayer\Settings\MP3Encoding]
Name: LowRate, MediumRate, MediumHighRate, HighRate
Type: REG_DWORD (DWORD Value)
Value: Rate in Bits per Second (bps)
Disclaimer: Modifying the registry can cause serious problems that may require you to reinstall your operating system. We cannot guarantee that problems resulting from modifications to the registry can be solved. Use the information provided at your own risk. Read More..
Detect Accidental Double Clicks (All Windows)
This setting is used to control whether explorer should attempt to automatically detect accidental double mouse clicks.
Open your registry and find the key below.
Create a new String value, or modify the existing value called 'UseDoubleClickTimer' using the settings below.
Exit your registry, you may need to restart or log out of Windows for the change to take effect.
Settings:
User Key: [HKEY_CURRENT_USER\Software\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\
Advanced]
Name: UseDoubleClickTimer
Type: REG_SZ (String Value)
Value: (1 = Enabled, 0 = Disabled)
Disclaimer: Modifying the registry can cause serious problems that may require you to reinstall your operating system. We cannot guarantee that problems resulting from modifications to the registry can be solved. Use the information provided at your own risk.
Change Drive Name and Icon (All Windows)
This tweak allows you to change the name and icon shown in Explorer for a specific drive letter.
Open your registry and find the key below. If the key does not already exist then create it.
Within the main key create a new sub-key with a single letter representing the drive letter of the drive to be modified. (e.g. [HKEY...\DriveIcons\D])
Within the drive letter key create another sub-key called "DefaultIcon" (e.g. [HKEY...\DriveIcons\D\DefaultIcon]) and set the "(Default)" value to equal the fully qualified name of the icon file. If the file contains more that one icon follow it with a comma and the zero-based index of the icon (e.g. "c:\icons\myicons.dll,4").
Create another sub-key within the drive letter key called "DefaultLabel" (e.g. [HKEY...\DriveIcons\D\DefaultLabel]) and set it's "(Default)" value to equal the label for the drive letter (e.g. "My ZIP Drive").
For example: HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE
Software
Microsoft
Windows
CurrentVersion
Explorer
DriveIcons
D
DefaultIcon
(Default) = c:\icons\myicons.dll,4
DefaultLabel
(Default) = My ZIP Drive
You may need to restart Windows for the change to take effect, or press F5 to refresh My Computer.
Note: The "DefaultLabel" value only works with Windows 2000 and higher.
Settings:
System Key: [HKEY_LOCAL_MACHINE\SOFTWARE\Microsoft\Windows\CurrentVersion\Explorer\
DriveIcons]
Name: Default
Type: REG_SZ (String Value)
Disclaimer: Modifying the registry can cause serious problems that may require you to reinstall your operating system. We cannot guarantee that problems resulting from modifications to the registry can be solved. Use the information provided at your own risk.
Password Crackers
This chapter examines password crackers. Because these tools are of such significance in security, I will cover many different types, including those not expressly designed to crack Internet-related passwords
What Is a Password Cracker?
The term password cracker can be misinterpreted, so I want to define it here. A password cracker is any program that can decrypt passwords or otherwise disable password protection. A password cracker need not decrypt anything. In fact, most of them don't. Real encrypted passwords, as you will shortly learn, cannot be reverse-decrypted.
A more precise way to explain this is as follows: encrypted passwords cannot be decrypted. Most modern, technical encryption processes are now one-way (that is, there is no process to be executed in reverse that will reveal the password in plain text).
Instead, simulation tools are used, utilizing the same algorithm as the original password program. Through a comparative analysis, these tools try to match encrypted versions of the password to the original (this is explained a bit later in this chapter). Many so-called password crackers are nothing but brute-force engines--programs that try word after word, often at high speeds. These rely on the theory that eventually, you will encounter the right word or phrase. This theory has been proven to be sound, primarily due to the factor of human laziness. Humans simply do not take care to create strong passwords. However, this is not always the user's fault:
Users are rarely, if ever, educated as to what are wise choices for passwords. If a password is in the dictionary, it is extremely vulnerable to being cracked, and users are simply not coached as to "safe" choices for passwords. Of those users who are so educated, many think that simply because their password is not in /usr/dict/words, it is safe from detection. Many users also say that because they do not have private files online, they are not concerned with the security of their account, little realizing that by providing an entry point to the system they allow damage to be wrought on their entire system by a malicious cracker.1
The problem is a persistent one, despite the fact that password security education demands minimal resources. It is puzzling how such a critical security issue (which can easily be addressed) is often overlooked. The issue goes to the very core of security:
...exploiting ill-chosen and poorly-protected passwords is one of the most common attacks on system security used by crackers. Almost every multi-user system uses passwords to protect against unauthorized logons, but comparatively few installations use them properly. The problem is universal in nature, not system-specific; and the solutions are simple, inexpensive, and applicable to any computer, regardless of operating system or hardware. They can be understood by anyone, and it doesn't take an administrator or a systems programmer to implement them.2
In any event, I want to define even further the range of this chapter. For our purposes, people who provide registration passwords or CD keys are not password crackers, nor are they particularly relevant here. Individuals who copy common registration numbers and provide them over the Internet are pirates. I discuss these individuals (and yes, I point to some sites) at the end of this chapter. Nevertheless, these people (and the files they distribute, which often contain thousands of registration numbers) do not qualify as password crackers.
NOTE: These registration numbers and programs that circumvent password protection are often called cracks. A Usenet newsgroup has actually been devoted to providing such passwords and registration numbers. Not surprisingly, within this newsgroup, many registration numbers are routinely trafficked, and the software to which they apply is also often posted there. That newsgroup is appropriately called
The only exception to this rule is a program designed to subvert early implementations of the Microsoft CD key validation scheme (although the author of the source code did not intend that the program be used as a piracy tool). Some explanation is in order.
As part of its anti-piracy effort, Microsoft developed a method of consumer authentication that makes use of the CD key. When installing a Microsoft product for the first time, users are confronted by a dialog box that requests the CD key. This is a challenge to you; if you have a valid key, the software continues to install and all is well. If, however, you provide an invalid key, the installation routine exits on error, explaining that the CD key is invalid.
Several individuals examined the key validation scheme and concluded that it was poorly designed. One programmer, Donald Moore, determined that through the following procedure, a fictional key could be tested for authenticity. His formula is sound and basically involves these steps:
The number that you derive from this process is examined in decimal mode. If the number has no fractional part (there are no numeric values to the right of the decimal point), the key is valid. If the number contains a fractional part (there are numbers to the right of the decimal), the key is invalid. Moore then designed a small program that would automate this process.
Create WormHole
Here's how I created the Wormhole effect for Future Glimpse 6.
Page 1 : Displacement
The effect I used for wormhole is easy to do and has many uses from rippling water to warping the fabric of space-time. 1. Start off with the image you want to poke a hole in, and create another blank image at the same size and resolution, but in grayscale (Image - Mode - Grayscale).
Page 2: Making the Warp
Working on the blank image, create a new Gradiant Fill, alternating dark gray and white. The more stripes you create, the more waves your wormhole will have. For a mild ripple, use a lighter shade of gray. For a really warped look, alternate between black and white. You'll also notice I got farther apart as I moved from left to right - this detail makes the outer waves larger than the inner waves, a characteristic of rippling water. I chose a medium gray below:
Page 3: Twirl it!
Next, you're going to apply a Twirl filter to the gradiant (Filter - Distort - Twirl). Play around with the amount to get the effect desired. It doesn't have to be perfect, there will be plenty of time for editing. I used -450 here:
When you're happy with how it looks, save it as a PSD file, such as WARP.PSD.
Note: Instead of the twirl filter, you can apply the gradiant as a radial (it will have a bullseye-type effect when applied). This gives you a slightly different look. Experiment!
Page 4: Setting Up
Back to your source image. First, make a copy of your source onto a new layer (Ctrl-J or Layer - Duplicate Layer). At this time, you can also place your "destination" image between the source and the duplicate, as shown below. Note that my "destination" is much smaller than my source, sized to fit in the "hole" we're going to make later. We can resize and reposition this layer as necessary once we make the hole.
Page 5: Warp Reality
With the top (duplicate) layer selected, apply a Displacement Filter (Filter - Distort - Displace). In this example, I used a horizontal and vertical scale of 50, Stretch to Fit, and Repeat Edge Pixels (which aren't important since the displacement map we created on page 3 is the same size as our source image). Apply the filter, specifying the warp file you saved in step 3 as the displacement map. Your image should now look like this:
Page 6: Restore Some Reality
Now you're going to define the wormhole. Apply a Layer Mask to the displaced layer. Set your foreground color to black, background to white, and select a soft-edged brush. Now, simply "paint" around the outside of the warp to expose what's underneath it. Remember, painting with black will Mask the area you're painting, painting with white will Reveal the area you're painting. Simply press X to toggle your foreground/background colors, painting in and out until you achieve the look you're going for:
Page 7: Poke the Hole
You could use the soft-edged brush to paint in the center hole to expose your destination, but I prefer the Ellipse Marquee Tool. Still in the Layer Mask, use the tool to make an ellipse in the center of your warp (you'll see how to best fit it to match the warp's waves), then feather it (Select - Feather) about 8 - 15 pixels (varies based on the resolution of your images - experiment!), and with your foreground set to Black, press Alt-Delete to fill the selection with black, exposing the center hole of your warp. You'll end up with something like the following:
Page 8: Getting Things Just Right
Now's your chance to move and resize your "destination" (the Alaska layer in this example). Play around with positioning, size, levels, all that good stuff. You can also return to your Layer Mask and touch up the Masked and Exposed areas of the Warp layer.
Page 9: Finishing Touches
To round off the image, I use the Smudge tool to smooth out any areas that seem to be too pixellated from the Displacement filter. I also use the Burn tool to darken slightly the opening of the hole, adding just a bit of depth. For some really cool effects, try the Liquify filter on the warp layer before starting your Layer Mask. You can also change the perspective of the displacement map (step 3) for an angled appearance to your wormhole. I hope you find this tutorial helpful, and I'm sure you'll find many cool uses for this effect. Please Message me with any questions or comments.
Create Rain Effect
Step 1
Today we’re going to attempt to create a simplistic yet realistic rainy day. This is basically a beginner tutorial, and my first attempt at writing one, so stay with me here.
We're going to try to reproduce the effect achieved in turning this image:
First thing you need to do is open the picture you want to add rain to. You can use any picture you want, or you can use the one provided. Next, duplicate the background layer (CTRL+J) by either dragging the layer to the “Create a New Layer” button at the bottom of the layers pallet OR going to Layer > Duplicate Layer…(this requires you to click “OK”).
Here’s the fun part! On your “background layer copy” go to Image > Image Adjustments > Curves… (CTRL+M) and make your setting something like this:
Or you can play around with them to get the desired effect you want. This gives the image that “dark rainy day” appearance.
Step 2: The Rain
Next step, the rain! Create a new layer (Shift+CTRL+N) by clicking the “Create a New Layer” button as before, OR go to Layer > New > Layer… name it “Rain” and fill that layer with White (CTRL+Backspace). Head up to Filter > Noise > Add Noise… and your settings should be close to this:
Step 3 & 4
Then head over to Filter > Blur > Motion Blur… and the setting should be close to this:
Now you need to head on over and adjust the levels. (CTRL+L) Go to Image > Image Adjustments > Levels… and my settings are:
But you can make them however you want.
Step 5
Last step!! Go to the top of your layers pallet and change the mode to “Screen” and Voila! You have a rainy day!
Optional step! To double the amount of rain in your picture, just copy the “Rain” layer (CTRL+J) and press CTRL+T to pull up the transform handles. You can go to Edit > Free Transform… as well. Click just outside the bottom right handle, until the cursor looks bent. Then hold Shift and turn the layer clockwise until the bottom right corner becomes the top left corner. Then hit the “Commit” button at the top!